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Beds and bedroom furniture

Beds and bedroom furniture

We build four-poster bed frames using the same basic construction that has held together for over 200 years:Mortise-and-tenon joinery connects the head and foot rails to the posts; both side-and end-rails tenons are held in their post mortises by bed bolts and nuts. This let us easily assemble and knockdown the frame and it allows us to tighten up the joints when the wood moves. To improve the traditional construction methods, we use modern tools and production techniques when shaping components and cutting joinery. And unlike a conventional bed frame that supports the mattress on a box spring, we prefer a different mattress-suspension system, which eliminates the box spring and allows us greater design opportunities.

 

We came up with a way to support a mattress on a sheet of melamine, which rests on slats then we can downsize the rails because they no longer have to cover a box spring This construction, called a platform bed, permits the rails to be located higher on the post, which enables more shaping of the leg section. Having higher rails also makes it easier to clean under the bed, and you’re less likely to knock your shins when you get into the bed. While discussing the frame design we use, including how we allow for headboard wood movement, we’ll describe the setups we use to simplify and speed up the bed-building process in our shop.Mattress sale, cheap beds, cheap mattresses, beds brisbane, bed sale, cheap bed frame,

 

 

Bed design:

Before we mill any wood for a bed, we completely work up the design with the customer, offering historical research when necessary. It’s important that the post style and headboard shape complement the existing furniture of the bedroom. To get traditional ideas, we often look in antique magazines, museums and Wallace Nutting’s furniture Treasury For contemporary ideas, we look at old Design Books( The Taunton Press) or in back issues of Architectural Digest. We never just reproduce a bed though. By refining proportions, using un-usually figured wood or choosing a special finish, we can significantly improve a bed’s appearance.

We encourage customers to order platform beds with cheap mattresses(those without box springs). There are other reasons to eliminate the box spring besides the disadvantages previously mentioned. First, box springs cost money. Second, you may need to hang a ruffle to disguise the box spring or to make the bedspread look right (a frame without a box spring allows you to extend the mattress over the rails, so the covers hag nicely). Third, box springs make moving a challenge. Just ask any mover who has confronted a curved stairway with a queen-sized bed.

Our platform beds get their influence form early 18th-century beds. This style remained popular up through the late 1700s. At that time, Thomas Sheraton developed “field beds,” which were used in military tents because the frames could be easily disassembled and relocated. Aside from their ability to knock down, the best feature of a bolt-together bed is its versatility. By swapping different post styles. We’ve made everything from traditional canopy beds to contemporary low-post beds-in sizes from twin to king.(Refer to the chart on p.11 for overall frame and component dimensions based on typical mattress sizes).

 

Stock preparation:

After we’ve arrived at a bed’s size and style, the next step is to measure the mattress exactly. We once built a bed from dimensions that were given to us by a mattress sales man. Because he gave us the wrong height, we would up with a bed whose headboard barely showed above the pillows. Now we always measure the mattress twice, and we usually yell at the salesman once. This is also the time we order the bed hardware, such as bed bolts and their covers and cheap mattress.

Depending on what a customer prefers, we usually select bed-frame stock from wood stored in our barn. We use common hardwoods like cherry, maple, walnut and mahogany. Generally, we allow thick green wood to dry a year to reach about 13%moisture content before we kiln-dry it. We make sure that all four bed posts come from the same log(glued up posts are unacceptable in our shop). In addition, we carefully match the headboard stock to the posts, and we try to select rail stock that is similar in grain and color to the posts. Next we rough-cut the stock, allowing extra length for rail tenons and for parting off posts if they’re to be turned. Then we let the stock sit it the shop a while before we mill it.

 

Frame construction:

The mattress-suspension system we use begins with 2x4slats; three laid on their side for a twin bed, four laid on edge for a double or queen and five on edge for a king-sized bed. To hold up the slats on a twin frame, we screw a ledger strip around the interior of the rails( see the drawing on the facing page). For larger beds, we install slat-hanging brackets(angle iron) above the bottom of the rail. On the top of the base of slats, we lay a sheet of 3/4-in. Melamine. The melamine stiffens and squares the frame, plus cheap mattress, supports the mattress and, because it is smooth, prevents the mattress cover from tearing. We screw the slats to the brackets so that the top of the melamine lies at or just below the top of the rails.

 

Posts-Each post has three sections:the leg, the block and the top. The leg likes to be at least 14 in. long to allow for proper shaping and to strengthen the rail connection by reducing the lever-arm of the upper post. The center block needs to be at least 1 in. longer that the rail height(longer if you want to shape transitional lamb’s tongues). The block size should also look proportionate to the rest of the post. The top section of the post carries the hear board and is the most visible area of the bed. To figure the length of the top of a head post, we place headboard and post patterns against the stock to make sure the connection will occur at a sensible place. The figure the length of foot posts, we mark the posts a couple of inches above where cheap mattress top will be.

We send 90% of our bed posts to local turner Mark Taylor to do the shaping. Along with stock for the posts, we give him a full-scale pattern showing the spindle design. Once the posts have been shaped, we determine the rail height. Then we lay put the center of the mortises on the correct faces of the post. We extend a bottom line around all the faces to use as reference line for drilling bed-bolt holes later.

To waste the bed-post mortised, you can use a plunge router and the jig shown in the photo below. The jig is easy to construct and is adjustable to fit most posts. We made our jig’s base out of particle-board and poplar, and we capped the rails with hardwood runners. We screwed together plywood and scraps to make the router carriage. If a post is tapered, we inset a couple of shims before clamping it between the jig’s rails. Next we double-check each mortise layout because the post is scrap if the location is wrong. Then using 1/2-in., two spiral end mil.

 

Rails- After we dimension the rails, we cut their tenons on a radial-arm saw fitted with a 10-in. dado head. To prevent transferring inaccuracies from slightly bowed or twisted stock, we space out the work from the saw’s fence, and we butt the end of the rail against a pointed stop. The stop contacts the same(center) spot on the rail when we flip it to cut the other check. To ensure a snug fit in the mortises, we cut the tenons thick, and we shave them down with a rabbet plane. After we have cleaned up the shoulders, we set the rail on edge, raise the saw-blade and then notch 5/8-in. on the top(but not the bottom) of the tenon. The notch allows the rail to expand and contract without exposing the post mortise. This orientation also helps us to tell which side of the rail is up during assemble

 

Headboard-Because headboards are wide, lots of wood movement will occur. Cutting a long mortise to accept a slightly under-width tenon will handle the problem, but it’s likely that the mortise will open up and leave an unsightly gap where the headboard meets the post. Therefore, we allow for expansion and contraction at the (cross grain) post-to-headboard joints by doing one of two things: we either shape a double mortise(leaving a center section of wood to stiffen the mortise) and notch the headboard ends to form twin tenon, or we split the tenons on the headboard and cheap mattresses, so they float on their post mortises.

With split-tenon headboards, we lay out the tenons so that the lower one falls onto a flat and the upper(snug) tenon falls just under a head or other detail. Tapering the 13/16-in.headboard thickness on the tenons ensures that they’ll fit tightly into the 3/4-in. wide post mortises. We cope both the top and bottom of the lower tenons, so the mortises will be covered no matter which way the wood moves. If we use a double-mortise, we undersize both of the tenons, notch the top of the headboard and cope the shoulder to fit the post. This enables the wood to move without being seen.

To form the shape of a headboard, we make a full-scale template out of medium-density fiberboard(MDF).Each template, which we keep, is half of a headboard: we trace the left side, and then flip it to get the right side. This let us fudge the length of a headboard, such as for larger bed frames. After we score the shape on the stock with an Exacto knif, we sabersaw close to the line. Then we clamp the pattern to the stock and flush-trim the shape using a bearing-guided router bit. To prevent tearout, we always rout down the headboard’s slope.

 

Bed bolts-because we use authentic bed bolts in our frames and cheap mattress, we provide the customer with a traditional wrench when we deliver the bed. We lay out the bed-bolt holes so the bolts will clear each other in-side the post. A1/2in. offset spacing works well because this let us hang adjacent bed-bolt covers at the same height. Boring the holes is a three-step process. First, we bore a hole in the post to recess the bolt head. The hole is large enough to fit the bed-bolt wrench, but small enough to the bore a 1-1/2in-deep hole in the side of the rail(to house the nut),using a 1-1/4-in. Forstner bit chucked in our drill press. Having a rounded seat for the nut instead of a flat allows greater adjustment when it comes time to assemble the frame (see the bottom right photo).and third, using the post hole through the post into the rail end using a 10-in-long twist bit. To do this, we lay the post on its side, fit the tenon in its mortise, mark the mating parts on the inside with a punch, and then bore the hole with a hand drill. If the layout is accurate, the bit will emerge in the center of the nut hole. We continue drilling into the rail to provide enough depth for the entire bed bolt.

We assemble the post, headboard and rails before we sand and finish the frame. Once on site, we loosely assemble the frame and install the melamine, which squares up the frame. Then we snug all the bed bolts and lay down the mattress