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Melbourne Bed gives the purchaser such a huge diversity of mattresses

 Melbourne Bed gives the purchaser such a huge diversity of mattresses with or without bed frame, and the quality preference for the main bed room to the guest room. Single mattresses and double mattresses are available in the collection which can be used as or on bed as per the requirement.

 

Laying out and cutting the curve on the top of the planks

The hearboard and footboard on this bed have elliptical curves. If you’re unfamiliar with ellipse lyaout, see “ An ellipse Layout Jig” on p.117. You can also use a simple curve as for the First bed.

1.Lay out either a simple curve or an ellipse along the top edge of the board.

2. Cut the curve out on the bandsaw, keeping to the outside of the line.

3.Clean up the sawn edge with a plane or sandpaper.

 

Cutting the leg joinery

1.mill up the leg blanks. The cut list dimensions are 1/4 in. Longer than fnished. The extra 1/4 in. On the top of the legs is for the turining centers on the lathe- you’ll cut it off and smooth it to shaper later.

2.Lay out the mortises for the headboard, footboard, and side rails as shown in “ headboard and footboard joinery” on p.42. Remeber that the left and right legs are not identical, through they are symmertrical.

3.Mark lines that indicate the end of the sections that remain square all the way across the blank at the top and bottom. You need these marks when turning.

4.Cut the side rail mortises 9/32 in. Deep, just deep enough to keep the rail from twisting or moving down. The best tools for the job are a plunge router and the mortising block described in “mortising Jig for Routing Small Workpieces” on p,23.

5. Also cut the headboard and footboard mortises 9/32 in. Deep over their full length. Then go back and cut the two full-depth mortises 1 5/8 in. Deep.

6.Drill the 3/4-in.-diameter, 3/8-in.-deep counterbore for the bed bolts on the outside of each leg.

7.Drill the 5/16-in. Holes for the 5 1/2-in. Hexhead bed bolt through the legs centered in the counterbore. To ensure that the bolt hole is straight, drill in from both sides and meet middle. Its the long way around to do it, but it ensures a good result.

 

Turning the legs

1.Make up full-scale patterns of the upper and lower parts of the turnings on pieces of 1/4-in. Plywood, 2 1/2 in. Wide and as long as the section involved

2.Set up the blank in the lathe.

3.Set the tool rest in position for roughing out the cylindrical lower leg. Rotate the leg blank by hand to check that the tool rest won’t innterfere with the blank when its spinning.

4.Rough out the top and bottom the blank into cylinders with a roughing gouge, staying about 1/2 in. Away from the edges of the square section.

5.Clean up the transition between cylinder and square section using a gouge, working slowly to the line. Start the cut with the tool up on the line. Start the cut with the tool up on edge, then roll the gouge flatter toward the bottom of the cut, keeping the bevel rubbing against the spinning leg. If you just present the tool flat, you’re likely to tear a chunk off the edges of the square section.

6.Using a pencil, transfer the notch locations from the pattern to the spinning blank.

7.Using a parting tool, turn notches in the blank where you have marked it to the various diameters. Note that you don’t do this on every line you marked. Some of the lines indicate the location of a change from one detial to another, and you’ll have to turn next to them. On others, such as the sides of the bead below the square section, you can’t get a parting tool or calipers into the small space. Size these by eye.

8.Where you can , set your calipers for each desired diameter and reduce the blank with the parting tool until the calipers just fit over the leg at that point.

9.Connect the grooves with the parting tool, following the shape on the pattern. Use whatever turning tools you preder. Watch the flow of the curves and the overall shape of the leg to make sure you are doing waht you want. Correct any problems with a gentle touch.

10.Leave a little pad of wood under the bottom bead for the tailstock a bite into. You can remove the pad later and replace it with a furniture glide, or you can just leave it.

11.Add definition to the turning by touching the sharp tip pf a skew chisel to the transition points. Just a touch will do it.

12.Sand the spinning blank with the coarsest grit necessary, working you way up through 400 grit. Be careful not to sand away the crisp edges of the transition between square section and turning. A good technique is to wrap a 1-in. Dowel with sandpaper and work it over the transition while holding on with two hands.

13.Burnish the smooth turning with a handful of clean shavings.

14.Saw off the waste at the very top of the leg above the final. Then sand to complete the shape.

15.Sooth the faces of the square sections. Because its important to keep the faces perfectly flat, use a well-tuned handplane. A sanding block that doesn’t overhang the edges will also do a good job, though its more likely to round over the edges.

 

Assembling the headboard and footboard

 

1.Fit the headboard joints using a shouder plane to trim the tenons to size. Strive for a snug fit. The joint should go together with some effort, but heavy hammering should not be necessary.

2.Glue up the headboard and footboard. Spread glue only in the dep mortises; the haunches get no glue at all. You’ll need at least two clamps to get the legs tight to the tenon shoulder. Check tht the tenons are not too long for their mortises. They should be about 1/32 in. Short. Otherwise when you glue up, the joint may not come fully together.

 

Making the side rails and slats

1.Mill up the 3-in.-wide rails, getting a flat and smooth surface on both edges because you’ll have glue joints on both.

2.Crosscut to 77 1/2 in.long, which leave 1 in. Of extra length.

3.Smooth the top edge of the rail with a handplane now so you won’t have to do this with the blocks attached. You can do this later with a scraper and sandpaper, if you prefer( or if you forget, as I did)

 

Adding ogee block to the side rails

1.Rip the four ogee blocks to width, 5 in. For the headboard blocks and 3in. For the footboard blocks. Fond boards that match well in color and grain so the joint between the blocks and the rail isn’t obvious. Also make sure the end grain of the block matches that of the rail.

2.Joint the bottom edge of the stock straight and smooth.

3.Cut the headboard blocks to 12 1/2 in.long and the footboard blocks to 10 1/2in.long. This leaves 1/2 in. Extra: 1/4 in. For waster and 1/4 in. For the tenon.

4.Lay out the ogee shape on each block and bandsaw to shape. Smooth the rough edges with spokeshaves, scrapers and sandpaper.

5.Line up the blocks withe the end of the rails and glue them in place using cauls made from the cutoffs

6.Cut the rail ends square and to their finished length of 76 1/2 in. After the glue dries.

 

Cutting the stub tenons

The side rails use a short tenon instead of two dowels to align and reinforce the rail-to-let joint against twist and shear forces.

1.Rout the stub tenon should either use the jig or just rout rabbets on both sides of each end with the base of the router running on the face of the rail.

2.Cut away some of the tenon to create the top shoulder. Don’t do this on the bottom because the added cleat will creat the shoulder on that side. Chisel the remainder flush with the should surface.

 

Drilling for the bed bolts and making recesses for the nuts

1.Locate the bed bold holes 2 1/2 in. Up from the bottom of the rail. This puts the nut in the full length portion of the rail and not in the ogee blocks.

2.Drill in from the end of the rail for the bolt holes with a 3/8-in.drill bit using a doweling jig for accuracy.

3.If you need to extend the hole deeper than the jig will allow, drill the rest by hand-it will follow the existing hole well.

4.Rout or drill and chisel a recess for the nut as described in ‘ A template for Rounting Nut Recesses’ on P.32. The only difference is the location for the recess. The flat side of the recess should be 3 1/4in. From the shoulder of the rail and centered on the bolt hole.

 

Making and adding the cleats to the rails

The cleats that support the slats on this bed are screwed to the bottoms of the rails instead of to the sides. Try to use boards that match the color and grain of the rails.

1.Cut cleats exactly to the length of th side rails between the tenons.

2.Plane or sand the outside edge of the cleats smooth.

3.Drill a series of pilot holes for#6by 1 5/8-in.screws to attach the cleat to the side rail. Drill from the bottom, 5/8 in. From the outside edge of the cleat and every 4 in. If you start 1 1/2in. From each end, you should wind up with 19 screw holes.

4.Drill the holes on the top face of the cleat for the dowel pins that hold the slats in place. These are 5/16-in.holes, 3/4in.deep.locate the holes 5/8 in. From the inside edge of the cleat, spaced every 5 in. Starting 2 1/2in. From each end.

5.Squirt a little glue into each hole, then pund in a 5/16-in. By 1 1/2. Dowel.

6.Scribe a line with a marking gauge 1/16 in. From the outside edge of the cleat. This is the reference line along withc you glue the rail.

7.Spread a light film of glue on the bottom of the side rail, keeping glue away from the outside edge to minimize the squeeze-out.

8.Place the rail on the cleat along the scribed line the flush with the ends of the cleat. Clamp in place.

9.Drive screws into the holes one at a time, checking to be sure the rail and cleat stay properly aligned.

 

Making the bolt hole covers

You can purchase bolt hole covers for this bed, or you can make your own out of wood. The wood ones are simple to make and are more traditional. You can either make 1 3/16-in. By 1 11/16-in. Rectangles of 1/4-in-thick stock, or cut out ovals

1.To make either square or round bolt hole covers, cut them to size, sand the edges smooth, then chamfer the outside face with a plane or sandpaper.

2.Drill 9/64-in.-diameter holes in the tops and 1/16-in. Or 5/64-in.pilot holes in the legs about 3/8 in. Above the top of the counterbored bolt hole.

3.Secure the covers with #6 by 3/4-in. Roundhead brass screws.

 

Making the slats

All the remains is making the bed slats and finishing the bed.

1.Make the 3/4-in.-thick, 4-in.wide bed slats out of maple. To get the exact length, you should assemble the bed first and measure the distance inside the rails.

2.Notch the ends on the bandsaw with a router or upright on the table saw, as described in “ A jig for Notching Bed Slats” on P.34. Drop each slat into place over the dowel pins, then lift the mattress into place.

 

 

Pencial-post Bed

Beds with four tall posts at the corners have been around since the Middle Ages. In the early history of the bed, the posts held heavy drapes taht both created a more private space and helped retain some heat in otherwise poorly heated rooms. The pencil-post Bed is one of may cariations of this form and lightens it ip considerably. What I like so much about his particular type of bed is the distilled simplicity.

This is the only bed in the book that can be bult almost entirely without glue. There aren’t any glued joints. You may have to glue up the headboard plank put of narrower boards, but once that’s done, you can pretty much put the glue bottle away.

On all of the other beds, the headboard and footboard are essemblies. On the Pencial-post Bed, each of the posts and rails remains separate. All these parts are held together with bolts. Dry tenons hold the headboard in places on the posts, and the bolted connections between the headboard rail and the post capture the headboard securely in place. Why is this? The bed has to disassemble into single parts or it would be alomots impossible to move out of any one room into another. If you glue the headboard up in you shop, you might have to sleep in your shop.

 

Building bed step-by-step

The pencial -post bed breaks down into a collection of nine major parts: four posts, four rails, and the headboard. The box spring is supported by cast-iron brackets screwed o the side rails. You can add either finials or a tester to detail the tops of the posts. The work progresses from posts to rails to the headboard since the finished posts are helpful to dril the rails accurately, and the headboard dimensions should come from a test-fit of the headboard post and rail.

 

THE POSTS

Milling the posts

As you might expect, most of the work on the Pencil-Post Bed goes into the posts. The basic milling, mortising, and shaping of the posts accounts for almost half of this project. Fortunately, the work is interesting and rewarding.

Mill up stock for four posts, 2 3/4 in. Square and 80 in. Long. Try to find 12/4 stock for the posts. If you can’t, glue them up from 8/4 stock. Two layer of 6/4 stock do not make 2 3/4 in. Thick once jointed and planed.

 

Mortising and drilling the posts

1.Look at the posts and decide where you want them on the bed. Mark the intended position of each post on the bottom,close the center. This way the marks will survive the shaping process.

2.Lay out the rail mortise locations on all four posts. They are all centered on the posts and located between 12 1/4in. And 17 1/4in. Up from the bottom.

3.Rout the mortise with a glunge router 1/2-in. Straight bit, and fence. The posts are wide enough to rout without any traditional support. Make the cut in two passes, one from each side of the post.

4.Mark out the locations for the bolt holes, staggering them so they do not interect. Make sure you stagger them consistently, with low ones for the side rails and high ones for the headboard and footboard or vice cersa.

5.Drill the 7/8-in. Counterbores for the bolt heads in the outside faces of the posts about 3/4 in. Deep.

6.Drill the 25/64 -in. Or 13/32-in. Bolt holes about halfway through the post from the outside.

7.Measure and mark the locations of the holes on the inside faces of the posts( in the morotises), and drill back to meet the bold holes. Of course, you could also drill before mortising and avoid this trouble. You could also do al of the drilling after you’re cut the posts to shape( as you see in the photographs), but only if you forget to do it now ( As I did).

 

Cutting the tapers on the posts

There are several good ways to taper the four sides of the posts: cut by eye on thebandsaw or use a jig on the bandsaw or on the table saw. Freehand cutting on the bandsaw is simple but requires pretty good technique for a straight cut over such a long distance. The jig altrnatives are more involved, but guarantee results.

1.Mark out the taper on the posts

2.Make two tapering jigs, one for the ipper taper and one for the lower taper. The jigs work equally well on either the bandsaw or the table saw.

3.On the bandsaw, the jigs ride against the flush-traimming guide. Set the trimming guide to cut 1/32 in. Shy of the taper layout lines.

4.On the table saw, set the rip fece to 1/32 in. Wider than the plywood tapering jig. The opposite edge of the jig rides against the rip fence as the sawblade cuts the post almost flush with the jig.

5.Cut the tapers to the outside of the lines on either the bandsaw or the table saw, leaving enough room to clean up the cuts. With both jigs, you cut tapers on two adjacent faces with the post on the ‘ first cut” side for the remaining two faces

6.Save the cutoffs from the tapering of the upper part of the post-you’ll need them when cutting the mortises for the headboard plank.

7.Clean up the tapered faces with a handplane or by sanding. Try to avoid cutting into the straight section.

 

Giving the posts eight sides

When tapered, the posts are only half done. Then tapers still need to be cut into an octagonal profile.

1.Lay out the edges of four new facets along the tapered portions of the posts.

2.If you use the layout jig,practice with it a few times on some scraps of 3/4-in. Wood. Its not the easist jig to use because the points tend to wander.

3.When confident, clamp the post securely so you can use two hands on the jig, and scribe the octagon lines.

4.Make a jig to support the post or cutting the facets on the bandsaw and cut the facets. You can also cut the octagonal profile by hand.

Clean up the four new facets with a well-turned handplanes. Sight from the ends of the post frequently to see if you’re planing straight. Once you’re close to the finished dep