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Melbourne Bed team deliver mattresses in factory direct condition

Melbourne Bed team deliver mattresses in factory direct condition but if you find the package is open or any damage to mattress, immediately contact our customer services. Put the item in same condition as when arrived and our team will help in replacement as we offer both pick and drop facility.

After placing an order for mattresses at Melbourne Bed you just sit down at home and we came at your door with the lightning fast delivery. You will get automation notification about where your mattress reached. Once you get your mattress we send you message of delivery. Its our duty to deliver products to customers as fast as possible.

With all the joints done, round over the edges of the bendings with a1/4-in.-radius router bit, and chamfer the edges of the rails, cut sawkerfs in the tenons of the wedges that will be hammered in later, and cut the wedges from a contrasting wood. To determine the lengths of the outer three footboard spindles, which are inserted now, place the rail on the bending where it will be when installed , and measure from the bottom of the holes to about 1 in. below the bending. Make certain these spindles will fit in the holes-we drill up a test block-and insert them without glue.

Glue-up is fairly simple. Spread glue in the mortise, and very lightly on the rail tenons, slip one end in, and spring the bending to slip the other in. two long clamps located above the below the joints are all that you need. Spread glue on the wedges and tap them home.

Now measure for the rest of the spindles, this time from the bottom of the holes in the rails to just below the bending at the cor-responding hole. Cut spindles to length and number them. Then check for fit in your test block, and sand for fit and finish. With one hand near the bottom end of the spindle and the other near its middle, flex the spindle enough to insert it into the proper hole. When it bottoms out, the spindle should just fit under its hole in the bending.

By now, the glue on the rail joints should be set, and the clamps can come off. The wedges need to be trimmed off and sanded flush. Then clamp the assembled headboard or footboard upside down in a bench vise. Spread a little glue in each spindle hole in the bending, and push the spindles all the way into the holes. Complete the spindling process by tacking 5/8-in.-long brads through the spindles from the inside of the rail.

Attaching side rails and cleats

There are numerous methods for attaching bed rails to a headboard and footboard. All manner of hardware options exist that claim to provide easy assembly and disassembly and a solid joint. I prefer the rock solid feel of bolts, which are only slightly less convenient than instant, knockdown hardware. With bolts, there is no screwing into endgrain and so no worry that something will work loose. The key to this joint is a recess for the nut router on the inside of the rail about 3 ¼ in. from each end of the rails. The recess could be large enough for an open-end wrench, but we prefer to allow just enough room for a screw driver to be inserted alongside a flat on the nut to wedge it from turning. A wrench seems to encourage excessive tightening.

Two dowels in the side rails ends, one on either side of the bolt hole, provide additional strength, prevent the rail from twisting and help with alignment when assembling the bed. We finish the joint by counterboring the outside of the bolt holes, so the head of the bolt and a washer will seat below the surface. You can conceal the hardware with a glug if you want.

The bed is now ready for finishing. We usually finish with three coats of Watco Danish oil, rubbed on with progressively finer grit sandpaper followed by a final coat of wax. After the rails are completely finished, you can screw on the cleats, set up the frame and measure the exact length of the slats.

We use 16 crosswise slats, ¾ in.thick by 4 in. wide, with their edges rounded over and their ends located by 5/16-in.dowel pins in the cleats, which fit notches in the ends of the slats. For a king-size bed, add a center strut from headboard to footboard. Drop the slats into place, and step back to admire your handiwork.


Bed Basics with cheap mattresses

Standard cheap mattress sizes are given in the chart below, but when building a bed, always measure the actual cheap mattress to be used because industry standards can vary greatly. Don’t forget to measure the thickness of the cheap mattresses (a concern that may not be immediately obvious). The measurements that are given in the drawing are for a queen-size bed with a 7-in.-thick cheap mattresses used without a box spring. For a box spring and cheap mattress, use wider rails and increase the length of the straight part of the bendings to avoid having cheap mattresses extend up over the bend in the footboard.

On our bends, we use cleats on all four rails to support a box spring and add 16 slats to create a platform for futons or mattresses without a box spring. To locate the slats and to keep them from sliding around (and to keep cheap mattress and you from falling through), we insert dowels along the side rail cleats