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Our platform beds get their influence form early 18th-century beds.

Our platform beds get their influence form early 18th-century beds. This style remained popular up through the late 1700s. At that time, Thomas Sheraton developed “field beds,” which were used in military tents because the frames could be easily disassembled and relocated. Aside from their ability to knock down, the best feature of a bolt-together bed is its versatility. By swapping different post styles. We’ve made everything from traditional canopy beds to contemporary low-post beds-in sizes from twin to king.(Refer to the chart on p.11 for overall frame and component dimensions based on typical mattress sizes).Stock preparation:After we’ve arrived at a bed’s size and style, the next step is to measure the mattress exactly. We once built a bed from dimensions that were given to us by a mattress sales man. Because he gave us the wrong height, we would up with a bed whose headboard barely showed above the pillows. Now we always measure the mattress twice, and we usually yell at the salesman once. This is also the time we order the bed hardware, such as bed bolts and their covers

With split-tenon headboards, we lay out the tenons so that the lower one falls onto a flat and the upper(snug) tenon falls just under a head or other detail. Tapering the 13/16-in.headboard thickness on the tenons ensures that they’ll fit tightly into the 3/4-in. wide post mortises. We cope both the top and bottom of the lower tenons, so the mortises will be covered no matter which way the wood moves. If we use a double-mortise, we undersize both of the tenons, notch the top of the headboard and cope the shoulder to fit the post. This enables the wood to move without being seen.

To form the shape of a headboard, we make a full-scale template out of medium-density fiberboard(MDF).Each template, which we keep, is half of a headboard: we trace the left side, and then flip it to get the right side. This let us fudge the length of a headboard, such as for larger bed frames. After we score the shape on the stock with an Exacto knif, we sabersaw close to the line. Then we clamp the pattern to the stock and flush-trim the shape using a bearing-guided router bit. To prevent tearout, we always rout down the headboard’s slope.