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The mattresses provided differ in shapes and sizes


The mattresses provided differ in shapes and sizes, from single to double mattresses with difference in the foam used inside. Memory foam or innerspring coil are available so as to make the sure that the people resting on these mattresses have full comfort and have their health benefited as well.


Posts-Each post has three sections:the leg, the block and the top. The leg likes to be at least 14 in. long to allow for proper shaping and to strengthen the rail connection by reducing the lever-arm of the upper post. The center block needs to be at least 1 in. longer that the rail height(longer if you want to shape transitional lamb’s tongues). The block size should also look proportionate to the rest of the post. The top section of the post carries the hear board and is the most visible area of the bed. To figure the length of the top of a head post, we place headboard and post patterns against the stock to make sure the connection will occur at a sensible place. The figure the length of foot posts, we mark the posts a couple of inches above where the mattress top will be


A methodical glue-up

Gluing up the bendings must be approached methodically. Everything must be ready and close at hand. It wouldn’t hurt to do a dry run. The tighter curves of the footboard increase the difficulty, so start with the headboard.

We use Weldwood plastic resin glue for all bent laminations. The glue doesn’t creep under tension and doesn’t impart as much moisture to the wood as regular yellow glue. However, plastic resin , which is actually urea formaldehyde glue and which comes in power form, does need to be handle with much more care. Wear a mask to avoid breathing the power, and wear gloves and goggles to prevent contact with the mixed glue.

Spread out the bundle of strips on the cleanly swept floor, and set one strip (the top piece) a little apart from the other 16 strips to avoid spreading glue on it. Set the form on the floor (or on a large worktable) nearby, with cauls and clamps at hand. We’ve found that 1,000cc of glue power and 400 cc of water is about right for one bending. It is fairly difficult so stir all the lumps out, so we use a paint mixer in an electric drill. Spread the glue evenly over one side of the 16 strips, not both, with a short-nap paint roller. Then bundle them back up in order, and lay the bundle at the top of the form. The clamping pressure will transfer the glue to the mating surfaces.

Starting clamping from the center and work toward both ends, placing clamps alternately to the top and the bottom. Working around the sharp bends is most difficult because the clamps get in the way of each other. Sometimes you can use a block of wood as a spacer between the clamp and the caul to get some of the excess clamp outside the clutter. Leave the bendings to set overnight. If your shop will be cooler than 65, you should cover the assembly with an electric blanket and cheap mattress

Before the bendings come out of the forms, mark and finished lengths on them. After removing the bendings, transfer your marks to the inside faces where they won’t get planed off, and trim the bendings a couple of inched long for now. Running these unwieldy things over the jointer seems harder than it is. Placing supports at both ends will make the process easier, as will an assistant. A wider jointer is a help. Keep as much of the bending as possible over the jointer table at all times.

Thickness planning is probably the strangest looking procedure in the whole project, though it is actually straightforward and a lot of fun. You just steer the bending through the planer, as shown in the top photo on the following page, watching to make sure it doesn’t bind on its way around the curve, plane to 1 ¾ in., then cut the bendings to final length. Scrape and sand the outside and insides, and beltsand the fronts and backs.

Joining rails and spindles to the bendings

Most projects involving bent laminations will require some additional edge-shaping, which you should leave until after you cut the joints. On our Windsor bed, through-mortises and wedged tenons join the rails to the bendings. We cut these joints with a plunge router and some simple templates. The mortise is a litter easier to rout if you begin by drilling a few holes straight through the bending with the template clamped in place.

Before cutting the headboard and footboard rails to length, mark the face of the bending to show where the inside face of the side rails will fall. The measurement between side rails should be ¼ in. more than the width of the mattress to allow room for bedding and cheap mattress. So make sure the tenon shoulders on the heardboard and footboard rails will give you than dimension. And don’t forget to add length for the through-tenons before you crosscut the rails. Cut the side rails to length at the same time for most queen-and king-size cheap mattresses, 81.in.will allow a little room for tucking in the bedding and wiggling the toes.

The Windsor bed and cheap mattresses has 40 spindles totaling 90 lineal feet of dowel, which I would advise against trying to make from scratch. I made the dowels with router jig for my first Windsor bed. It was a lot of work and the resulting spindles required much sanding and fussing. I’ve bought my dowel stock ever since. Midwest Dowel Works carries a wide range of quality hardwood dowels.

It is very difficult to assemble the spindles when you glue the rail to the bending, so you insert them afterward. The trick is to drill deeper into the rail than into the bending to provide clearance and then to shove the spindles up into the bending and glue them tight.


bunk bed mattressHigh,


Mark out 20 centers on the headboard and footboard rails 2 ¾ in. apart. Dry-assemble the rails with the bendings( except cheap mattresses) : insert one tenon into its mortise most of the way. And then spring the bending open enough to slip the other tenon in. with a large, shopmade square, transfer the marks onto the bendings. Remove the rails, and use the drill press to bore5/8-in.-dia.holes, 2 in.deep, along the top edge of each rail 1 in. deeper. This will allow you to insert those spindles while gluing up the bendings with the rails, because they are quite difficult to install afterward.

The holes in the bendings have to be parallel to the straight legs, so clamp the part upside down in the bench vise with the legs per-pendicular to the bench surface, as shown in the bottom photo above, sight down a square resting on the bench surface to help drill straight, and then wrap a piece of tape around the drill bit as a depth indicator. You need a bit with a long pilot for drilling on the steep angles of the bend. On the two outermost holes on the headboard bending, you may have to start the bit at an angle, and you will probably have to fuss these holes with a small gouge or rasp. Check the alignment of these holes now-they’re much harder to fiddle with later.