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The variety of mattresses available

The variety of mattresses available provides the purchaser with the unlimited options of the designs and shapes to co-relate and enhance the room according to the users demand and space available for the same. The single and double mattresses are provided with frame and without frame according to the preference of the purchaser.

Shaping the transition from octagonal facet to straight section

The transition from straight section to octagon takes the form of a curve about 3/4 in. Long.

1.Make a cardboard pattern of the desired cueve and the mark each of the facet faces. This way, you can cut to the lines on the curves as well as on the straight tapers.

2.Use a curved-sole spokeshave or a rasp with a rounded face to rough out the transition

3.Scrape and sand with sandpaper wrapped around a 1-1/2-in. Diameter dowel to smooth the transitions

4.Finally, plane or sand a small chamfer around the top and bottom edges of each post.


Mortising for the headboard

1.Place a post on the bench, with the facet to be mortised face up. Take a pair of cutoffs from the initial tapering of the posts and clamp them on either side of the location where you will cut the mortises, with wide ends toward the top. The wedges basically extend the straight section of the post, and if clamped flush with the top facet, they’ll also support the router more fully.

2.If you didn’t save the cutoffs, makeup some wedges with an angle the same as the taper.

3.Mark out the locations for the mortises, and plunge-cut with a router 1 in. Deep. You can also drill out the waste wood and chop the mortise by hand.

4.Chisel the ends of the mortises square and chamfer the mortise edges very lightly.


Making the Rails

Milling the rail stock

1.Mill rail stock for the side,headboard, and the footboard rails, and cut them to length.

2. Cut the tenons on the ends of the rails on the table saw with a dado blade or with a router using a 1/2-in. Rabbeting bit. To support the router when cutting the narrow sides, clampp a pair of rails together.

3.Rout the wider faces to complete the tenons.


Drilling for the bolts

The easiest way to drill the bed bolt holes in the ends of the rails is to sude the holes in the posts as a drilling guide.

1.Clamp a headboard or footboard rail upright in a bench vise, and hold the appropriate post in place. Make sure you’ve matched up the correct post with the rail you’re drilling. Since the holes are offset, you don’t want to drill a rail offset the wrong way.

2.Drill down through the hole in the post as fas as you can into the rail. You’ll have to drill deeper once you remove the post from the end of the rail to drill between 3 1/2in. And 4in. Deep, unless you have a very long twist drill to do the jib all at once.

3.To drill holes in the longer side rails, clamp them in the bench vise at roughly a 45 degree angle, otherwise, you’ll have to climp up on a stepladder or on top of the bench itself to drill the hole.


Embedding the bed bolt nuts in the rails

Though traditional and elegant, capturing the nut for the bed bold inside the rail is a lot of work and strictly an option. You could use any of the easier techniques described in the other projects in this book. But this technique leaves a compelely hidden nut and eases bed assembly.

1.Rout a recess-basically a 1/2-in. By 1 3/4-in. By 1 1/2-in.-deep mortise-on the inside face of the side rail

2.Mill some tenon stock about 12 in. Long, and round over the edges to match the rounded ends of the mortise

3.Insert one end of the tenon stock all the way down into the mortise.

4.Insert a bend bolt intot eh hole in the end of the rail, and tap it to mark the bolt’s lacation on the tenon stock.

5.Remove the tenon stock and lay out the location of the nut, centered around the bolt’s mark.

6.Drill out the waste and carefully chisel the hole square so the nut fits snugly.

7.Put the nut in the square ole in the tenon stock and glue the stock in place.

8.Thread the bolt onto the nut before the glue dries to be sure it works.

9.After the glue dries, cut the tenon flush with the inside rail. All that will show is a little patch of end grain.


Adding the mattress hangers

To support the mattress, you can use special cast-iron mattress hanger, available from some of the specialty hardwar catalogs listed in sources on p.183. You can also use full length angle iron or 1/8-in. By 1 1/2-in. L-shaped aluminum angle stock. You could also use wooden cleats as in the First Bed project, but the metal brackets let you hide about 1 in. More of the box spring inside the rails.

1.Rout recesses for the cast-iron mattress hanger in the side rails so the box spring won’t snag on the edges of the hardware. If you leave an extra 1/2-in. Space between the rails, this won’t be necessary.

2.Screw the hanger into place after all of the finishing for the bed has been done.



Making the headboard

Gluing up the headboard

If you have a singel board wide enough for the headboard without gluing it up, then skip to step 3. If not, you’ll need to glue ont up.

1.Choose the boards that will make up the headboard, making sure they match for color and grain. A board that is half the necessary width but twice the length is usually a good choice. That way you can cut it in half and have two boards very similar in character.

2.Joint the edges carefully and glue together. Let the glued-up plank sit for at least 24 hours, and then smooth it.

3.Assemble the two headboard posts with the headboard rail to get an exact length for the headboard-don’t just rely onn the dimensions in the drawings for this.

4.Measure between the lower mortises on the posts; then add the depth of the mortises to come up with a final length for the headboard. Only then should you crosscut the headboard to length.


Cutting the tenons

Te tenons on the headboard are not typical tenons in that there are no shoulders. Because the headboard is thicker than the mortises are wide, you do need to cut the edges of the headboard down to fit in the mortises. Although a straight taper can woek, I recommend a curved transition.

1.Cut a 1 1/8-in.-long rabet across both ends of the back of the headboard, leaving just over the desired tenon thickness. This can be done on the table saw or by using a router and a straight bit with an auxiliary fence attached.

2.Draw the shape of the transition curve on an edge to guide your cuts.

3.With a core-box bit in the router, make a number of passes adjusting both the fence and the bit height to waste away as much wood as possible.

4.Scrape and sand the curve with sandpaper wrapper around a 1 1/2-in.-diameter dowel to refine and smooth the shaper of the transition


Shaping and fitting the headboard

1.Lay out an ellipse on the headboard, or draw out your own shape.

2.Bandsaw the headboard to shape. You’ll need an assistant if you choose to bandsaw the oval cutouts on the sides of the headboard. You could cut these out with a jigsaw instead.

3.Sand all of the edges smooth, easing the corner slightly.

4.Plane, rasp, or sand the back sides of the tenons to fit in the mortises in the posts.

5.Smooth the curved transition out again if necessary after fitting the tenons.

6.Be sure to leave a little room for seasonal expansion and contraction of the headboard. The oval cutouts do not change the rules of wood movement.



Making the finals

Finals crown the tops pf the bedposts and can be turned or carved to shape. They’re optional but make a very nice detail that’s worth the trouble. Or you can add a tester.

1.Cut the turning blanks for the finials out of the same stock as the posts if you have any left. Though its wasteful to cut 1 5/8-in.square blanks out of such thick stock, you’ll have a close color match to the posts.

2.Make up a pattern to turn from in the same way described to turn the legs fro the Shaker Style Bed.

3.Drill the 3/8-in.-diameter hole for the dowel pin before you turn the final. A live center ( a cone-shaped point with ball bearing in it so you don’t have to worry about friction from the tailstock center) fits easily into this hole when setting up to turn.

4.Don’t part off the narrow end of the final until after you’ve finished sanding. Then take a final light touch with the point of a skew chisel to cut the waste off; the final will drop free.


Making a tester

The tester is woodern framework connecting the tops of the posts. It often has additional crosspieces bbetween the side pieces. The tester is typically used instead of the finals.

1.Choose sotck that is as staight as possible for the tester because the thin rails can warp easily over time. Mill the stock carefully for straightness.

2.To get the right lengths for the tester parts assemble the entire bed first

3.Measure from post to post on the outside, then subtract between 1/8in. And 1/4 in. In both direction. You may have to play with the numbrs a little to come up with a rectangle. Putting the tester slightly under tension also helps to keep it staight.

4.Cut the tester parts to length and cut half-lap joints on the ends.

5.Hold a joint together snugly, then carefully drill through the center on a drill press.

6.Cut a facet on the corners of the tester to match the shape of the tops pf the posts.


Drilling the post tops for the final or tester

1.Mark the exact centers of the tops pf the posts by drawing the diagonals and marking their intersection with an awl.

2.Lay the post on a workbench or long table, and clamp it in place. The benchtop provides a good reference for drilling straight dwon into the top of the post.

3.Drill a hole with a 1/4-in. Drill first, and check to see if the hole is centered. You get a chance to correct the hole location by enlarging the smaller hole a little bit before commonting to the final size.

4.Enlarge the hole to 3/8 in.

5.Mark and drill pilot holes for the screws for the bolt hole covers once all the finishing is done.

6.Hold the covers in place and tighten the screws until just barely snug. You should still be ablt to rotate the cover easily.



City Bed

Sometimes the overall form of bed makes the design interesting. The Windsor Bed(pp.112-129) and the Sleigh Bed( PP. 144-163) are good examples of this. Other times its the detail that make the design. That’s the case with the City Bed. The undnerlying form is very simple. The details transform this simple structure into a much more interesting bed. The stucture doesn’t appear simple at all once the legs have beed transformed from square posts into colums with bases and little “ temples” on top. And shaping the top edge of the headboard obscures the fact that its essentially a simple rectangle.

This bed was inspired by the view of downtown Chicago from my wife’s( then my girlfriend’s) apartment. This is quite an abostraction, of course. The city doesn’t look like this. But impressions of the local archiecure along with highly distillled bits and pieces of various buildings found their way into the design. The profile of the headboard is an abstraction of the way several buildings look when bunched together at a distance. Only later did it occur to me that the overall design is reminiscent of some Arts and Crafts pieces.

The result is a bed with a lot of character and detail, but one that doesn’t assault the eye with complesity. Much like a city skyline seen at a distance, there a lot more going on than you can or really need to see right away to appreciate it.


The bed construction is straight forward and follows the pattern set uop in the first Bed. You should refer back to that project for a more detailed discusstion of the construction basics. Much of the discussion here focuses on the specifics of making the bases and capitals for the legs and on shaping the headboard.


Making the legs

Gluing up the leg blanks

The easiset way to make the legs is to mill them out of 16/4 lumber. But chunks of wood like this are not always easy to find. Gluing up 8/4 stock is the best compromise. The glued-up blanks need to be 4 in. Wide and about 1 in. Longer than the final dimensions required.

1.Spread glue evenly over one of the faces and clamp the blanks together.

2.Use a lot of clamps so that the pressure is evenly spread over the entire leg. Wait at least 24 hours for the glue to dry.

3.Plane or rip the legs to 3 1/2.by 3 1/2 in.

4.Cut the legs to length.


Drilling for the bed bolts

1.Mark the location for the bed bolt hole with a sharp awl 11 1/8 in. Up from the bottom of the leg and centered from side to side. Mark all legs on both sides.

2.Drill first from the outside with a 3/4-in. Bit, going roughly 3/4 in. Deep. This is the ounter-bore hole.

3.Drill in the center of this hole with a 3/8-in.bit, going about halfway through the leg

4.Flip the leg over, and drill with the 3/8-in. Bit until the holes meet up. This way, if the bit wanders at all when cutting through the 3 1/2in. Of leg, it won’t throw off the location.

5.Drill the two 5/16-in. Alignment holes using jig described in ‘ A Bolt Hole Drilling Guide” on p.28. The work can also be done by carefully marking and drilling on a drill press.


Cutting the leg mortises

The headboard and footboard rails fit into a 1/2-in.-thick, 2-in.-deep, 2-in.-wide mortise in the legs.

1.Lay out the mortises centered and between 9 5/8 in. And 12 5/8 in. Up from the bottom of the leg.

2.Cut the mortises for the headboard plank 16 5/8 in. To 29 5/8in. Up from the bottom. These mortises are also 1/2 in. Wide but are only 9/16 in. Deep. A plunge router with a fence attached does the job easily.


Drilling pilot holes for the headboard pins

1.Lay out the pilot holes for the pins on both the outside and inside. Measure carefully so the holes line up.

2.On a drill press, drill from the inside with a 3/16-in.drill bit in the center of the headboard mortise halfway through the leg.

3.Drill in from the outside with a 3/8-in. Bit until the two holes connect.


Milling the rails

1.Mill the headboard, footboard and side rails to 1 1/8in. Thick. Presurfaces 5/4 lumber will be 1 1/16 in. Thick and is fine to use. Your mattress will have an extra 1/8 in. Of space if you don’t adjust the length of the headboard and footboard rails.

2.Tenon both ends of the footboard rail, but cut only one end on the headbord rail for now. You’ll cut the opposite end after the headboard plank is done, so the lengths can be exactly the same.

3.Cut the 1 31/32-in.by 3-in. Tenons. I use the jig described in “ A Tenoning Jig” on p.24

4.Plane or rasp the tenons if necessary to get a tight fit in their mortises

5.Mark each tenon for its specific mortise. This wll also make it clear which ones you’ve done already.


Making the headboard Plank

When gluing up the headboard plank, its important to use wood from the same board. Try to place the seam down the middle. Unfortunately you can’t just cut the headboard to length as a perfect rectangle. It helps to make the headboard slightly wider at the top, by about 1/32 in. This eliminates the seeming inevitable gap that forms between the headboard and the legs.

1.Glue up the headboard plank. After its dry, smooth it by planing, scraping, and sanding as necessary.

2.Rip the headboard to overall width.

3.Decide how you want to orient the headboard, and mark the top clearly

4.Set up a crosscut tray with an added 2-in.-wide, i-in.-thick auciliary fence. You want the auxiliary fence to be longer than the headboard plank and set so the blade will cut through it. The kerf will help you line up the cut on the other side.

5.Place the bottom edge of the headboard against the fence.

6.Add a 1/32-in.-thick shim between the fence and the headboard, about 1 in. Away from the blade, and cut one edge. This should give you the correct amount of splay to keep the upper part of the headboard should tight against the leg.

7.Flip the headboard over so that the bottom is still against the fence, shim it, and carefully measure from the opposire end of the headboard on the edge that’s against the auxiliary fence. You measurement should be 1 in. Longer than the intended shoulder- to- shoulder length of the headboard